Monico Family Travels

Category: Japan

• Hakone

  Posted at 7:54 am by Bella, on March 10, 2019

   

  

  Oh no!  We just missed our third train in a row, and its FREEZING!

  We spent the weekend in Hakone, and our hotel provided dinner.  Dinner turned out to be loads of weird Japanese fish and scary things we couldn’t identify.  The fried chicken was good though!

  The next day we took a gondola called The Ropeway over lots of mountains with the hope of seeing Mount Fuji.

  

  

  On the journey we crossed a valley of some sulphur which stank like rotten eggs.  We were up high, but if you you were to walk across the valley down below, the acid from the sulphur could damage your lungs  and even kill you.

  

  We were really lucky it was a clear day so we could see Mount Fuji without any clouds blocking it.

  

  We took a windy stroll at the bottom of the Ropeway and saw a pirate ship.   We thought it must be a fake pirate ship because it had an engine at the back.

  

  In the afternoon (after a scrummy sushi lunch), we went to an Open Air Art and Sculpture Museum and there was a really cool interactive climbing exhibit.  You had to go through lots of different holes and clamber through nets to get to the top on the inside which was a more open net you could run around on.  It was really cool and fun to play in.

  

  This one wasn’t as fun because it hurt your knees but the design of it was really interesting.

  

  

  

  There were lots of Picassos, but this one was the most huge and colourful:

  

  Here are some of the other sculptures. I really liked the hanging ball that we saw our reflection in.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Although mine and Emily’s favourite was these fried eggs!

  

  

  When we got back Emily and I were super tired and couldn’t even open the door to our hotel room!

  While we were waiting for dinner that night we made our first ever successful Houses of Cards!

  

  

  On Sunday while we were waiting for our glass-blowing workshop we walked around a pretty garden.  Around the fountain we were surprised to see lots of flower cabbages.

  

  

  

  

  At first at the glassblowing I was a little bit scared because the molten glass was so hot, but the teacher was very nice and helped us.  First you would roll the molten glass in the coloured beads of your choice, then you would blow it to start to create the shape  you wanted.  After you had shaped it slightly you would put it back in the furnace to make it softer again so you could shape it some more.  It felt like blowing a balloon but harder.

  Daddy made a beer mug:

  

  

  I took these photos of Mummy when she was puffing hard!

  

  

  

  

  

  Here is me and I made a small vase.  The glass nearly fell off when we put it back in the furnace because I couldn’t spin if fast enough as I was wearing slippery gloves.

  

  

  

  

  Milly made a vase as well and she put spots on hers, while I had swirls.

  

  

  

  

  We had a great weekend at Hakone, and our glass works were shipped to Mutton Hall.  I can’t wait to see the finished product when we get home!

  Posted in Countries, Japan | 4 Comments

• Back in the city – Tokyo heights!

  Posted at 12:14 pm by Charlotte, on March 8, 2019

  

  There was a veritable aura of anticipation as we pulled into Tokyo by uber-efficient bullet train.  The height of the buildings, the vibrant colours of the omnipresent street signs and numerous indications of multi-level living were immediately evident.  We checked into an apart-hotel in the bustling district of Akasaka.  

  

  View from our aparthotel room – photo accredited to Bella

  Everything in our room was on a Japanese scale: lets say ‘compact’ or ‘small but perfectly formed’.  There were tables and benches for school/meals, which converted at night to the girls beds, plus a ‘dinky’ kitchen (fine for steaming goyza snacks, but less functional for Shrove Tuesday shenanigans) and and an open plan bed space for James and I.  

  

  B & E washing up (sink too small for Mum and Dad (honest)……)

  Pancake efforts:

  

  Bella flips!

  

  Happy days

  

  Not the best, but still a pancake!

  To make the most of our ‘weekend-day’ arrival, our inaugural outing was a high adrenaline blast at the Tokyo Dome (planned by James….. presumably that goes without saying).  We launched the day riding a vast rollercoaster which frankly made me slightly regret my breakfast. I yoga-breathed my way through the ordeal.  The others all claimed to love it, although their facial expressions in the obligatory rip-off mid-ride action photo seem to tell a different story!  We rounded out the terror with a visit to the haunted house which was a walk around (one-way-no-backing-out) tour based on the story of a girl who was mutilated on her face from using a moth poison infused  powder puff, after which she was buried alive. Apparently it was suitable for ages 6+, but the rising 9 yo and the unshakable 10 yo with their faces buried inside my t-shirt were both decidedly jittery all the way round.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Wandering to find lunch!

  Lunch was utterly thrilling in an entirely different way.  Think Yo Sushi on steroids.  Not only does grabbable sushi circulate on the lower conveyor belt, but you can create personal orders on your bespoke iPad, and the upper belt whooshes your freshly made dishes to the precise spot in front of you for you to pick up and eat.  It wasn’t exactly a social experience, but 40 minutes of concentrated gluttonous/tech fuelled joy!

  

  

  Around our perusal of the famous hectic Shibuya crossing, we stumbled across the statue of Hachikō, a Japanese Akita dog remembered for his remarkable loyalty to his owner, Hidesaburō Ueno, for whom he continued to wait at the train station for over nine years following Ueno’s death.  This story inspired us to pick Haatchi for our Friday night movie which we all managed to find heartwarming despite wincing somewhat at the the constant Richard Gere eye ‘crinkling’. 

  

  

  Our original Sunday plans had to be ditched for an alternative rainy day programme. The incredible Panasonic RiSuPia centre saved the day.  We got sidetracked downstairs for a while by an exhibit of all the Olympics torches from the past 12 Games, and some other inspiring preludes to Tokyo 2020.   Upstairs in the Quest Gallery, I was literally blown away by how principles of science and maths were made engaging through games and incredibly clear explanations.  

  Explaining binomial distribution to Bella suddenly became fun!

  

  

  

  I got a lot further with explaining the principles of equilibrium than I ever did in the playground with a simple see-saw.

  

  

  And I learned at thing or 2 myself about cycloids….

  

  

  The next floor up got a lot more digital/interactive, and we all had fun manipulating electromagnets, playing ‘prime-number’ air hockey, and even (to my amazement) getting obsessed by moving lines around a graph by shifting the x and y values.   Kudos and gratitude to Panasonic!

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Sunday happened to be the Hina-matsuri festival, when Japanese families pray for the health and growth of their daughters.  Bella, Emily and I celebrated at the Keio Plaza Hotel where 6800 handmade silk hanging dolls, said to trap evil spirits and bring girls good luck, were showcased in the main lobby.  The decorations have various symbolic meanings.  Monkeys have the ability to ward off calamities, mandarin ducks reflect love between spouses, and pillows represent children who sleep well and grow healthily.  

  

  

  

  

  

  It is also traditional to eat lurid sweet rice crackers…….apparently!

  

  Wednesday and Thursday this week delivered a social whirlwind beginning with meeting an old Google pal, James, who hosted us for lunch on the 43rd floor of the Mori building in the Google Tokyo Japan engineers cafe (eng always gets the best food!). The evening hailed delicious Thai food and a drop in from Justin (Emily’s friend Winnie’s dad) who was in town on business.  We shared a quiet beer together before he embraced a full on Japanese client dinner/Suntory binge/Karaoke experience.  And Thursday brought torrential rain and a wonderful meet up with Robin who was in my section at HBS.  We hadn’t seen each other for 15 years, and she valiantly toured us round the Meiji Shrine where we admired the architecture, the trees, and the spirituality of the place, and took the opportunity to write our wishes on wooden plaques.  

  

  Mori tower which contains the Google building

  

  Prawn crackers and a sinking a Singa with Justin

  Meiji Shrine with Robin:

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  That afternoon, my usual ‘look at that fascinating lamppost over there’ diversion tactic failed on route back to our hotel, so we ended up in an 8th floor cat cafe.  I have to say the cats were a lot happier/freer than I expected and it was genuinely a good experience for us, and I think not too horrific for the cats!

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Tokyo has the most amazing set of museums, and most school mornings this week were spent taking advantage of them.  Some highlights included:

  Monday: Science Museum with plenty of good engine action

  

  

  Tues: Lego Discovery Centre (after-school to be fair)

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Weds: Samurai Museum (with dress up!)

  

  

  

  

  Fri: Robot museum (plus a bit of space action)

  

  

  And on the subject of school, the girls achieved number 1 in the global Mathletics Hall of fame this week – way to go!

  

  To wrap up for today, some further reflections on Tokyo

  • Everyone is extraordinarily compliant here.  Literally no one jay walks. Pointless rule following is enforced ubiquitously even when your daughter is trapped on a Lego-land ride under a faulty safety bar.  If you miss your appointed dinner time, you don’t eat. If you ask to swap out the corn soup for miso on the kids menu it really stresses out the waiting staff.
  • Fruit is exorbitantly expensive.  These (12!) special white strawberries are on sale for 16200 yen, equivalent to a whopping £112!   And your basic orange and apple combo is 5400 yen, an eye-watering £37. Its all marvellously tasty though, so we haven’t eliminated fruit from our diet, we’ve just started splitting apples in 4, and nibbling them like rabbits!

  

  

  • It is incredibly safe here.  People
    

    Imperial Palace from the running ‘loop’

    leave their running kit bags on the grass outside the Imperial Palace running loop with no fear of theft.  Parents let their 10 yo kids roam the city alone. The supermarkets let you pay for your own groceries without analogous security mechanisms like the UK self-checkout weighing stations.

  • It is not at all progressive on the gender equality front.  I could rant here, but I’ll save it for over a beer sometime.  And all the men wear a uniform of black suits, white shirts…….and ties.
  • It is not at all multicultural.  In contrast to walking around London, Tokyo is full of similarly coloured/featured Japanese vs the melting pot that we are used to at home and acknowledged in most S American countries.  This is the result of very strict immigration laws.  Even nationals are required to come home to live after any 7 year period abroad or they lose their Japanese status.
  • Quality is ubiquitous.  Everyone does a good job, of every job, even in service industries, because they take pride in their work, and it is expected rather than because they are pursuing tips.  The few tips I have proffered have been (politely) refused.
  • Gardens everywhere are gorgeous, well tended like pampered children.
  • Onsens really work (especially the ones that smell of sulphur).  I went with achingly stiff limbs after a rather over-zealous yoga session, and got out of the water feeling genuinely renewed.  
  Posted in Countries, Japan | 4 Comments

• Hitting the slopes of Hirafu

  Posted at 11:12 pm by Charlotte, on February 28, 2019

  

  Getting to Hirafu was a cacophony of cancelled trains (too much snow, so a mixed blessing when heading to a ski resort), and stressful travel moments.  Eventually we politely pushed our way onto a local ‘stop-at-every-lamppost’ chugger, and stood like sardines clutching our bags as we passed by the most spectacular scenery including some huge waves crashing onto a beach of snow just a few meters from the train window.

  

  The resort of Hirafu has been referred to as the ‘Aspen’ of Japan.  This description manifested to be partly true. The town is peppered with Michelin starred restaurants and Montclere clothing stores, but the slopes are sparsely serviced by various lift types and quality ranging from perfectly decent gondolas, to  the ‘pizza box’ – a ‘single’ chair lift with no safety barriers that swings violently from side to side as it hoiks you to the top of the volcano whilst you are buffeted by 30mph winds carrying icy snow ready to slash and burn any piece of flesh that you may inadvertently have left exposed.  The clientele ranges from posers dripping with diamonds that barely make it out of the spa to the slopes right through to the most hardcore powder hounds EVER who make us feel like softcore part-timers who can barely stand up on a set of skiis!

  

  

  

  It is cold.  Very cold. The weather comes from Siberia which results in so much fresh powder every day that its hard to moan about anything really.  After I had bought the local corner shop out of hand and foot warmers all has been well on the temperature front!  The sun rarely comes out fully.  The weather ranges from full on blizzard to a kind of ethereal light as the sun fights its way through the clouds which cling to the volcano sides.  There are no animals or birds around so those moments when you find yourself alone on the slopes are eerily beautiful in their quietness.  In contrast, on the groomed slopes there are constant loudspeaker announcements which echo with distortion and remind me of sci-fi movies where the ‘evil administration’ is constantly broadcasting to the nation.

  

  It is absurdly beautiful.  The mountains are cloaked with silver birch trees, adorned with delicate deposits of snow.

  

  Skiing here couldn’t be more different to Europe.  I haven’t encountered a patch of ice in 2 weeks on the slopes.  Runs are generally quite short, as the skiing is on a series of volcanoes that aren’t particularly high, but since mostly we ski down through the trees, or hike to various peaks to ski off piste that slows us down a fair bit (especially when we take in a few tree ‘hugs’ on the way down).  There is a system of ‘gates’ which lead to ungroomed off-piste avalanche controlled areas which is where we spend most of our time to make the most of the abundant powder. We are learning a whole new lingo eg ‘its completely tracked out man’ which means that a handful of people have gotten to a particular patch before you and left their ski or board trails to mess with your smooth turns and perfect lines.  And the lift helpers are SOOO polite! They take your skis from you to pop into the gondola storage slots, and you can frequently then get into a courtesy bowing ‘duel’ as you pay your respects and thank each other. I usually concede defeat when the gondola doors are about to shut to take my skis up the mountain without me.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  James and I joined various workshops to try to get to grips with the powder and the trees, and can now more or less get down anything in the resort. The girls have come on hugely and one if not both of them will have overtaken us in both skill and speed by the end of this part of our adventure.  They are already tough to keep up with. They tend to nip off-piste into the woods if you lose concentration for a second. Blink and you miss them! Sometimes they pop back out (usually over some kind of drop off or jump), and otherwise you just catch up with them a the bottom of the slope.  They have also taken to ‘surfing’ the gondolas (‘look no hands’) which I suspect has something to do with all the Aussie instructors they have been hanging out with.

  

  

  

  

  Home has been an apartment with a fabulous view of Mount Yotei, which occasionally we can even see when the wind is blowing in the right direction and the sun comes out.  Half term brought lots of cosy movie nights, and the slopes have delivered lots of ramen at lunch time which generally goes down well!

  

  A very rare (winter) view of Mount Yotei at sunset (mostly at least half of it is swathed in cloud)

  We’ve taken Saturday’s ‘off’ to give the legs and the lift-passes a rest.  Week one we took the train to nearby town Otaru for their snow festival. In contrast to the huge scale snow festival we visited in Sapporo, this one was on a truly local scale which lent a much more intimate atmosphere while still being breathtakingly stunning.  The light installations were set all along a canal, and many featured lanterns with delicate flowers set into them, or intricate calligraphy painted on sheets of ice.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Week 2 we went to the local climbing wall, reminded ourselves how to belay the girls, and sent them up and down some fairly epic walls and overhangs.  Mission accomplished – they slept well that night!

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Other than that its been mostly skiing and chilling.  Other than sampling plenty of the Hokkaido cuisine (king crab legs, soup curry, hot pot, uni (sea urchin gonads!), and rice bowls), our cultural explorations also took us to watch an amazing drumming group perform in the town centre.  Turn your volume up – it will be worth it:

  

  King crab legs – delectable!

  

  Urchin gonads – a bit more challenging!

  Stop press:

  • It stopped snowing about a week ago!  
  • The resort emptied apart from the foreigners
  • We switched out our big fat powder skiis for carvers and hit the ‘groomers’
  • Bella and Emily are now both faster than both of us

  Oh yes, forgot to mention that James grew a beard, and got on a board.  Both short-lived thankfully!!

  

  The board

  

  The beard!

  2 more days here then we hit Tokyo for some city vibes – get ready!

  Posted in Countries, Japan | 8 Comments

• Happy Birthday Daddy

  Posted at 11:14 pm by Bella, on February 23, 2019

  

  

  

  Every year on someones birthday we have a family tradition of decorating the room for a special breakfast.  So we made a happy birthday banner out of magazine pages, and some snow flakes for the window.

  On the actual day, we made Daddy his special coffee to drink in bed while we put the decorations up and made his breakfast.

  

  Mummy got Daddy some fancy champagne for his birthday breakfast.  It was Mummy’s first time drinking alcohol for a month so she enjoyed it too.  Emily and I had special drinks as well.  We made up a mocktail of ginger beer, grapefruit juice and apple juice – you should try it!

  

  

  As part of our tradition everyone gets to choose a breakfast that they love, and the rest of the family makes it for them.  Daddy asked for full English….which is a bit of a problem when you are in a ski resort in Japan because there tends to be very few pigs around!  Luckily we found some REAL bacon in a freezer in a deli we popped into, so we could deliver Daddy’s wish.  Yummy!

  

  

  

  

  We all made cards for Daddy.  My one was the picture with the rocket labelled Daddy taking off into space.  Emily’s card is the one next to mine which has a heart on it.  Mummy’s card has a picture of the volcano outside our window on it, and it is called Mount Yotei.  Rob put a funny joke on his card which involved an avocado!

  

  

  

  

  

  

  After our big breakfast we all went skiing.  We found a natural half pipe which took us all the way down the mountain and it was really fun to ski in because it had loads of trees and bumps in the way.  It was amazing because it was the first time any of us has skied on our birthday.

  

  We skied to a restaurant at the bottom of the slopes which served all you can eat sushi.  The sushi was really good but they made you finish everything on the plate (including the rice) before they would make you more fresh sushi.

  

  

  For the final part of Daddy’s birthday we took him to a snowmobiling track.  Because Emily and I were under 12 we weren’t allowed to drive our own so we went on the back of Mummy’s and Daddy’s.  But we can both drive Grandpa Gosling’s quad bike so we could easily have driven these which didn’t even go as fast as the quad bike.  The landscape was beautiful but we had to huddle up because it was really cold.

  

  Afterwards the place had a banana boat, but on snow.  It was so exciting because whenever the man driving stopped we would swing round in front of him, and he took us super fast round all the corners.

  

  For dinner we went to a burger restaurant underground in a bunker called BigFoot.  There were loads of other people who were drunk and everybody was chatting really loudly.   The food was in a basket and mummy put her mayonnaise and ketchup on the side of her fries but unfortunately it ended up dripping through the basket and onto her jeans and boots without her realising so she ended up in a mayonnaisey mess!

  

  

  

  This is the quickest cake I have ever made in my life.  Basically all you have to do is mix milk, and egg and oil with some powder, and put it in the microwave for 5 minutes and finally put the pre-made icing on!  We decorated it with extra chocolate and some candles.

  

  Mummy gave Daddy a fancy bottle of sake (a japanese wine) that looked like Mount Yotei.  Also we found some really funny Samurai pants for a gift which he liked a lot.  I gave him some dark chocolate which is his favourite and Emily gave him some orange marmalade which is his favourite on toast.

  HAPPY BIRTHDAY DADDY!!

  Posted in Countries, Japan | 4 Comments

• Sapporo Snow Festival

  Posted at 8:29 am by Charlotte, on February 8, 2019

  Our next destination was the snow festival of Sapporo.  Since spring school term started this week, James and I spent the morning running errands, and we enjoyed getting out to explore as a family in the afternoons.

  There were 3 main sites to the festival: the snow site, the ice site, and the family site.  All were beautifully managed and mannered, and peppered with delicious street food to delight the senses further whilst admiring the beautiful frozen art works.  

   

  

  Highlights from the snow festival

  

  

  

  

  And we couldn’t forget this little chappie!

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Highlights from the ice site

  

  

  Highlights from the family site

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  James’s errands mostly involved getting replacement cables and electronics.  He decided to wait till Tokyo for a haircut, but I braved Sapporo for a wax. The Japanese wax service was as precise and intricately performed as the Latin American ones had been flamboyant and fast.  It took over 2 hours(!) for a leg wax…..

  

  …..and that was with 2 of them going at it at the same time!

  I could have managed it faster on my own with a pair of tweezers and a blindfold!  Other applicable cultural details of note included the ‘waxing dress’ (a kind of pinafore worn over knickers and top) required put to protect my modesty (while they waxed up to my inner thigh…….and strictly no further), and the slippers I was required to wear to walk across the 2 foot corridor from the changing room to the cubicle, which would have been too small for Emily about 4 years ago.

  As the week progressed we encountered interesting new gastronomic opportunities:

  

  At a yakitori restaurant the girls discovered that chicken was no longer the safe option!

  

  At a seafood restaurant we (regretfully) passed on the squid guts and the spicy cod innards in favour of a plate of chips, which the Japanese take to a whole new level – battered and deep fried (still probably a better option than the squid guts)!

  

  Squid guts: photo courtesy of Google images

  But imagine the delight when we allowed the girls to tuck into (safe) cup noodles!

  

  Only surpassed when we discovered that not only is it polite to slurp the soba or udon noodles in your ramen, but that for ultimate politeness the slurp should be followed by a burp!

  

  

  And the hot chestnuts at the snow festival were the best!

  

  

  Overall we are starting to feel acclimatised to life in Japan, at the same time as knowing we have barely scratched the surface and there are so many exciting discoveries and adventures to be had.  Next stop more snow!

  Posted in Countries, Japan | 4 Comments

• Invasion of the giants

  Posted at 11:16 pm by Charlotte, on February 4, 2019

   

  

  Hello Japan!

  Landing in Japan after 24 hours with no sleep, and navigating 5 back-to-back trains to get to our first destination gave us a chance to hazily absorb first impressions:

  • We are really tall.  
  • About ⅓ of the population (at least on trains) wear masks.  
  • Everywhere is extremely tidy, but there are no bins, so where does the rubbish go?
  • Locals are very proactive and generous in helping lost foreigners.
  • Toilets on trains are positively delicious (I could spend whole journey in there enjoying the warm seat, and the pristine floor).  
  • Bento boxes can contain scary unidentifiable things that may or may not be food (by our definition).
  • Japanese trains run as punctually as Swiss ones, and outdo them with their orderly queueing/boarding systems.
  • Its baltic.

  

  What a view from our first hotel!

  Our first hotel in Shibu Onsen was ryokan (trad Japanese) style to give us a more immersive first experience.  We quickly got used to the shoe policy (none to be worn beyond the entrance hall of the room), but less so the ‘low living’.  Beds are packed away during the day to offer a very aesthetically pleasing minimally furnished living space, but sitting on the floor all day is hard (literally and metaphorically) for us vertically challenged and tight-hipped adults (the girls loved it!).  Futon style beds were laid out in the evening which were bearable if doubled-up (single thickness felt like sleeping on a camping rollmat).

  

  Daytime room layout: perfect for the 1st day of the Spring Term of Monicofamilytravels school

  

   Night time set up: they don’t seem to do the ‘matrimonial’ version

  The motive for this first destination was to visit the Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen-Koen..  I was expecting it to be some fairly hideous tourist trap and ended up very pleasantly surprised. We enjoyed an early morning hike up the hill to find the monkeys in a very free and natural environment. They spend the night in the forest, and upon waking make their way to the area of the hot spring pools to have a warm-up dip, and to avail themselves of plentiful food scattered around the viewing site.  The babies in particular were joyful and playful, and it felt like a truly genuine experience.

  

  Us (and our jetlag) ready to go!

  Monkeys!:

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  It felt like we just got to mosey around in the monkey’s habitat while they did their thing

  The local town Shibu Onsen is a sleepy tourist/retirement town, which proved to be a fun playground to start exploring local food:

  

  

  

  We had our first delicious ramen, sushi and yakatori meals in tiny family run restaurants:

  

  

  

  As divulged by its name, Shibu Onsen is also famous for its Onsens (Japanese baths) which are fuelled by an abundance of hot natural springs scattered around the prolific volcanoes of the region. A good soak is supposed to bring all sorts of relief to stress and fatigue plus there are specific springs to alleviate gout, eye infections, ‘womens issues’ (if only a bath could nuke those!), and more.  There are 9 public baths in and around the town. Some kind of luck is associated with getting round all 9 of them in a day (which we failed on), but we DID visit what I think is the most spectacular of all. We worked up a sweat hiking for 3 hours up steep hills to the Toomi-no-Yu Onsen enjoying beautiful views of forests and apple orchards bathed in thick blankets of snow. On arrival, per tradition, we parted ways girls to the right and boys to the left, stripped naked, and sat on plastic stools in communal shower rooms to have a good wash and get fully cleaned.  Only then could we enter the outside Onsens to enjoy the outstanding view of snow-capped peaks and the (very) hot bathing experience. Our ladies bath was attended by groups of young women and families, all unabashed by their nakedness, enjoying the collective experience. James reports that on the male side there was a little more posturing and posing on the rocks when blokes had to emerge for some relief from the extreme heat of the water, but the female side was pure unselfconscious relaxation.

  

  The spectacular view from the ladies outdoor onsen

   

  Posted in Countries, Japan | 9 Comments

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