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    • Mashpi Magic

      Posted at 5:23 pm by Charlotte, on September 8, 2018

      NB IF YOU GET NOTIFICATION OF THIS BLOG BY E-MAIL, RECOMMEND YOU GO TO WWW.MONICOFAMILYTRAVELS.COM TO READ IT, AS THE PHOTOS RENDER BETTER THAT WAY AND THERE ARE A LOT OF THEM IN THIS EPISODE!

      This is a bit of a retrospective on  our trip to Mashpi cloud forrest (in Ecuador) before we flew to Buenos Aires last September, as it somehow didn’t get blogged, and deserves more than a mention.  

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      MASHPI PANORAMA: the lodge is nestled in the middle, our wonderful guide Lizardo features on the right

      The story of Mashpi Lodge begins in 2001, when the local mayor bought a section of the Mashpi Cloud Forest.  I was initially skeptical regarding his motivation, but ended up convinced of the purity of his rationale to protect this area of astounding biodiversity, after years of deforestation and exploitation for gold-mining had threatened its unique and curious flora and fauna.

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      Mashpi Lodge was created by architect Alfredo Ribadeneria in collaboration with interior designer Diego Arteta to create a space where guests could  be immersed in the cloud-forest while making minimal impact on the surrounding environment

      Our days were spent hiking hilly trails IMG_20180907_154924cunningly converted into steps by setting plastic drink-bottle crates deep into the mud, and splashing along tinkling streams.  The vistas, were vast and ubiquitously spectacular. We discovered untold medicine trees, the Mashpi Magnolia (unique to this nature reserve), and so many fabulous birds.  Butterflies abounded. While the rare Spectacled Bear managed cunningly to elude us, we did have a rather memorable encounter with some black howler monkeys. Bella and I were out for a sunset hike, and we spotted a troop in the trees directly above us and tried to track them as they leisurely swung from branch to branch towards their sleeping spot.  It was a rare siting, and just as we were starting to feel rather smug, they weed on us. A LOT. Turns out monkey wee REALLY stinks! But the real question is, is it more lucky than bird poo?

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      This butterfly can camouflage itself as an owl….

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      …..or as a snake!

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      The ‘walking’ palm that can move itself up to a meter per year!

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      One of the cheeky monkeys that weed on us!

      Most of our walks took in a waterfall or 2 where we could have a shower or a dip.  They tended to be on the ‘refreshing’ side, but inspired awe and reflection about how special and rare it is to experience such remote and beautiful places.   

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      Our guide, Lizardo (for real!) IMG_20180905_104524not only looked the part, but was incredibly knowledgeable, and had a passion for tiny frogs that turned out to be rather infectious (the passion not the frogs!).  He was locally born, and totally self-made (taught himself great English from scratch in 3 months using Duo Lingo which renders our reciprocal Spanish efforts using the same app rather pathetic).  In one of his past lives he was a climbing guide hence ninja with ropes, which made for some fun tarzan swinging:

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      Mashpi Lodge has some great gimmicks which serve both to reveal different aspects and perspectives of forest life and appealed to the kids (including the big kids!) in our party.  The skybike is like a push-me-pull-you trans-forest-self-propelled vehicle. Its heavy and therefore a LOT harder work than it looks. But that (obviously!) didn’t stop us.

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      The Dragonfly (a form of open-air cable car) is a lot longer, and mechanically driven hence less hard work.  Our first trip consisted of 45 minutes of ‘flying’ through a cloud, but we caught some amazing views and a few cool birds next go.

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      The foggy one

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      The viewtastic one!

      Other than some spectacular cocktails (inspired by the forrest) 2 other highlights of the Mashpi experience include the Humming Bird station where feeders attracted literally hundreds of birds – beautiful to watch, rather frustrating to photograph……

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      And the thrills and spills of night walks:

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      We celebrated the end of this first ‘holiday’ section of the greater Monicofamilytravels adventure with cocktails in the jaccuzzi.

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      Next stop was BA, 1st school term kicking off, and our Argentinian vida.

      2 furry friends to see you off!

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      And some less furry ones

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      And I couldn’t ACTUALLY close out without memorialising James’s hair! (it does it for me baby!)

      Posted in Countries, Ecuador | 4 Comments
    • Rather a lot of sharks!

      Posted at 6:06 pm by Charlotte, on September 3, 2018

      The Galapagos have been rather unexpected, and predictably incredible simultaneously.  The relentless preservation of the Islands is like a cult thats easy to buy into, and the constant proximity of animals/birds to humans is surreal.  

      Our first night was spent at a cutesy hotel on Santa Cruz Island, and we reconvened with our lovely jungle-German friends for dinner, games and cocktails.  It was a painfully early start the next morning to get the ‘ferry’ to San Cristobal Island. Turns out the ‘ferry’ wasn’t one of those vast lumbering vessels that you booze cruise across the English Channel, but rather a vomit inducing, spine crushing speed boat which banged and lunged around for 3 hours until we all ended up in a heap with the other passengers at the back of the boat and disembarked feeling bruised and somewhat green (despite the liberal dosing of Dramamine).  We stayed at a somewhat dingy, but very functional airBnB (with IMG_20180827_061620a great view of the bay), took a gentle hike that afternoon to the local Mirador, then stopped on our way home to snorkel at a recommended spot. Despite double wetsuitage, entering the freezing water elicited much shrieking, only surpassed in decibels when a playful sea lion skimmed past and then stuck around to duck and dive all around us. Emily managed to get a great photo (whilst screaming!), and this might take centre stage for her next blog post.

      James and I got some (chilly but) great (lots of sharks) dives in while we were on San Cristobal, and Bella did a discovery dive (her 10th Birthday present).  She was super cool and calm (as you would expect from Her Beaniness) and was rewarded with some amazing sightings – look out for video highlights coming soon! Emily and Bella also did some fairly full on snorkelling at the same dive sites while we were underwater (despite deep-seaness, and major swell), and handled themselves really well, even when the sharks appeared!

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      I won’t dwell on the ferry back to Santa Cruiz (more of the same!) but day 1 of activities was a real highlight.  IMG_20180830_135209We took a private fishing tour. None of us are remotely into fishing, but it turns out that it can be really quite exciting when both lines kept ‘catching’ simultaneously, and we got to ‘fight’ the fish from belt harnesses.  We landed one pretty quickly – a spectacular yellowfin tuna (which we enjoyed for the next few dinners!), but all the others got away (because they were sooooo big that they broke the lines/swallowed the lures – most likely sharks – obvs!). And then the next unexpected treat – the sun came out (we haven’t seen it since Quito!), so we swam to a pristine white beach, and lounged around with the sea lions and built sandcastles.

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      Watching the Safari Camp chef making sashimi with our yellow fin!

      Bella’s birthday was a delight from start to finish.  We kicked off at 5:30am withIMG_20180831_083222 hot chocolate and presents in bed.  Our biggest hit was a blue candy ‘thumb’which came with a dipping pot full of mega-tangy sherbert.  Who knew such gastronomic delights existed and could be savoured at such an uncivilised hour? The Safari Camp where we are staying served cupcakes for breakfast, and decorated both the table and us with various lurid masks, sprinkles and streamers.  We headed out for a tour of Plazas Island IMG_20180831_110814where we got very close to various nesting birds, handled some gruesome skeletons, and a observed a colony of bachelor sea lions (they go here to hangout when they’ve been ostracised, or when they are building strength to win the hearts of sea-lionesses!).  The boat crew had been duly tipped off, and served cake number 2 at lunch. It’s an Ecuadorian tradition to make your birthday wish as you (literally) take a bite of cake, and Bella dived in without hesitation!

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      A real unexpected highlight after lunch was when our Captain spotted 2 humpback whales courting not far from us.  They were both leaping out of the water about 50M from us, and even our guide could hardly contain her excitement. Not long after (as if the whales weren’t enough) we saw a ray jumping out of the water (apparently to get rid of parasites, so less romantic than the whale’s display!). We snorkelled after lunch in a quiet channel teeming with huge shoals of various fish, IMG_20180831_173621and ended up in a lagoon where lots of black tipped sharks were taking their afternoon snoozes under some rocks round the edge.  During the snorkelling trip Emily lost a tooth! There was a dramatic amount of blood, so Em got out of the water to avoid attracting even more sharks.  Sadly (despite a heroic effort from James to ‘catch’ it underwater) we lost the tooth, but luckily the Ecuadorian tooth rat (!!!) picked up the message from May (Emily’s personal ‘home’ tooth fairy) and visited overnight. Back to Bella’s birthday, the rest of our happy afternoon passed with a piñata bashing on the terrace of our lodge, tea ie cake number 3, a mega game of Ecuadorian Monopoly, and lots of cocktails and mocktails lit up with flashing ice cubes!  Dinner brought with it cake number 4 which none of us was able to touch…. A memorable Beanie 10th for us all!

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      Our last few days brought more tours, more islands, more arctic snorkels, more incredible animals and birds, more well meaning American pensioners, more mosquito bites, some yoga on the sunset observation tower, and one gruesome stomach infection for Emily.

      And before I sign out:

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      Here is the obligatory tortoise photo

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      And the other obligatory tortoise photo

      And I try to avoid double posting photos on the blog/Instagram BUT, these sea lion numbers were too good not to revisit

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      This cheeky chappy was looking to hitch a ride to the next island 

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      And this one just wanted to hang out at the hottest bar in town with las chicas

       

      Posted in Countries, Ecuador | 8 Comments
    • Hacienda Alegria: our horsey home

      Posted at 5:45 pm by Charlotte, on August 25, 2018
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      We spent the last 8 days at Hacienda La Alegria.

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      It is near the famous Cotopaxi volcano, just 1 hour south of Quito

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      Daily live involved …..

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      …helping to feed the calves,

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      cute foals,

       

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      Mr Clark(e?!?!) the donkey (who has the softest nose in the world),

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      and the odd poncho.

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      We rode out every day

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      round the local farmland

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      in spectacular scenery (and sometimes clouds).

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      We did a 2 day/overnight trek to the cloud forest

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      with more spectacular scenery……..and more clouds,

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      sometimes over tricky terrain.

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      We stayed overnight here.

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      There was no electricity, so we ate by candlelight (Dog and Monk joined us!).

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      We needed a proper hosedown by the time we got home!

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      We visited various markets over the week mostly cooing over fluffy animals,

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      and gawping at some less fluffy ones.

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      James found some new headgear…….

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      …..which is probably an improvement over his ballooning bouffant barnet!

       

      Posted in Countries, Ecuador | 10 Comments
    • Creepy crawlies

      Posted at 1:55 am by Millie, on August 17, 2018

      Every night we go on a night walk. And every night we would find another creepy crawlie. One night I found a millipede. I named her Squiggley. She was very tickly when she crawled from my hand to hand.

      The next dark night we found a cricket. It was as big as a ruler and related to the lobster family.

      The scariest night animal I saw was a big and hairy tarantula. It had made itself a nest on a type of tree.

      The best camauflaged creature was a wonderful and surprisingly strong stick insect.

      There were social spiders. They were yellow which was surprising and they were as small as a pencil lead. They live in colonies of thousands and hunt together and share their food.

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      Surprisingly strong stick insect
      Speedy scorpion spider
      Speedy scorpion spider
      Tangy tarantula
      Tangy tarantula
      Giant cricket, part of the lobster family
      Giant cricket, part of the lobster family
      Squiggley the millipede
      Squiggley the millipede
      Posted in Countries, Ecuador | 12 Comments
    • Our adventure just got a whole lot more adventurous……in the jungle!

      Posted at 2:13 pm by Charlotte, on August 15, 2018

      Getting to the jungle involved the usual tedium of a dodgy government-run flight, a few hours bouncing around on the back seat of a poorly suspensioned bus, and then several more on a ‘motorised canoe’.  We met a lovely German family with 12 year old twins so then passed a very happy evening in Nikki Lodge (which lived up to its billing of being ‘comfortable not luxury’ aka cold showers) with great conversation and a lot of games of jenga, all washed down by warm beer.

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      Our first early morning walk featured mud and many legged creatures.  We snacked on live lemon ants, trudged in the sludge (losing various wellies on the way), spotted squirrel monkeys, capuchins, titi monkeys, toucans and macaws, but without question the star of the show was Squiggley the millipede.  He was about 12cm long, by 2cm wide (excl limbs!), with an ‘armoured’ back, and uncountable sets of quadruple legs. He was initially the cause of much squealing (to be fair he was a bit ‘tickly’ and had a penchant for finding his way up sleeves). Suffice to say that he quickly became such a hit that he came back and joined us for breakfast and the 4 kids had to be entreated to release the poor insect back to the wild after he had sat through empanadas and scrambled eggs!

      After a pack and a wash, we left the relative security of Nicky lodge for a 4-day private camping trip.  Our wonderful entourage included Theodoro the boat driver (skilled and warm hearted), Yasmana the ‘helper’ (short-legged and good humoured purveyor of radioactive bubble gum lollipops), Rita the cook (surefooted and masterful with a yucca root), and Jefferson our non-local guide (newly ‘qualified’, and sufficiently proficient at translating what the others nudged him to say!).

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      We stopped on the way to our first camping spot to swim in a lagoon.  For the second time that say much screeching ensued about the prospective proximity of various piranhas and other life-endangering water-life.  My own heebie-jeebies subsided marginally when I established from Jefferson that anacondas are not ‘water-going’ and the 4m black caymans tend to hang out in the forest during the day.  Apparently the rule-of-thumb is that if the pink freshwater dolphins are around, then its safe to swim. We saw sufficient fins and bottle-noses to take the plunge, and it was high-adrenalin, but refreshing.

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      Our first campsite was a lovely island with lush grass and a welcoming shelter.  We spent a happy few hours putting up tents, locating night-time essentials, and painting our faces with the red ink from a spiky seedpod that Jefferson (or was it Yasmana….) identified.  Theodoro later dropped us at a 93 step viewing tower where we watched pairs of macaws flying to their night-time roost, and a gentle sunset. A fairly hairy night walk was next on the days’ adventure, and Em has ‘baggsied’ that as the topic for her own blog post – coming soon!

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      The big mission was to reach and pass the Peruvian border, so our days involved a lot of time on the canoe.  Mostly that was a chilled affair, taking in the green details of all the trees and foliage around us, spotting wildlife, reading books and making friendship bracelets.  James even got some wood and did some whittling with the girls (we nowIMG_20180813_064914884have a rather dubious butter knife to add to our lean travel kit!). But, apparently it also rains in the rainforest – duh!!!  And when the rain came it was the kind that drenches you before you even get the chance to zip up your back pack, and pull the packaway hood out of your dodgy mac. We hunkered down in pairs using mildewed life vests for insulation (and yes, if you look closely at the picture you I AM wearing a binbag!).  It usually only lasted for 30 – 40 minutes, but it was the uncertainty of the duration which was probably the toughest feature of each downpour. The girls were amazing. We never even got a whimper out of them, rather beaming smiles when the sun re-appeared (along with a radioactive bubble gum lollipop from Jasmana).

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      On night two, just on the Ecuador/Peruvian border our ‘best laid plan’ had to be put aside as the planned campsite was flooded.  After a lot chat and chin-tugging, we were eventually offered by the local Ecuadorian border military to camp on one of their plots.  On first sight James and I had a bit of a panic. Said site seemed to be a sandfly infested swamp with a half-built building on it. The half built building was jammed with golden silk spiders (amazing creatures but not ones you’d care to share your bed with), and the only way to get up to it was balance your way up a rather unsteady plank to the 10 foot platform.  As we adults floundered with the prospect of this habitation option, Bella basically kicked us into play and pulled out her growth mindset. In fact she was absolutely right. The location was spectacular. It was at the intersection of 2 rivers, with Peru one side, and Ecuador the other. The platform we slept on was dry and afforded incredible views of the river and jungle, and we all found different ways to pee off the side of it (so as to avoid tight-rope walking down the slippery plank to pee in the swamp).

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      Our last night will stick in my memory forever.  We fought our way down an increasingly narrow and overgrown tributary to get to Lake Zancudo Cocha.  As we burst out of the undergrowth this view of a HUGE lake, surrounded by uninterrupted forrest, and one small camping hut the far side (which is where we got to spend the night) blew our minds.  We spent hours swimming in the lake, and canoeing around the border finding wildlife and (after dark), caymans. Rita cooked up a feast (including poached tree tomatoes for pudding!), and we shared a bottle of rum and a bar of chocolate with the crew which made for very jolly times and lots of impassioned toasts to each other in fumbling Spanish.

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      ‘Getting out’ gave us some fun for a final fling.  Bella and I hiked the first few hours, following our local guide Bolivar who machetied his way through creepers and branches to create a path.  It was a proper sweat fest, but felt really unique and special vs following regular paths. Emily and James took the boat, and had a snake encounter at the side of the lake.  It was a colourful chap, swimming proudly at >2M long. Thank goodness they only found it on the last day, and it never found us!

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      JUNGLE HIGHS AND LOWS

      HIGHLIGHTS: mind-blowing daily sunsets, all the incredible wildlife, baby caymans, when Bella entreated us all to ‘be positive’ (about the prospect of camping in the sandfly infested swamp), when Emily did her countdown to diving off the boat (which involved a lot of funky dance moves), going to sleep to the sounds of the jungle, coming round the corner to see the huge lake and our final camping spot.

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      LOW MOMENTS: when I had to swap tents with Emily, only to discover that the kids tent was about a foot shorter than ours (that was a BAD night), when one of my wellies sprung a leak, sand flies, mosquitoes, and when we found out that anacondas actually DO swim!

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      Fresh Guava (its sweet and a bit furry!)

       

      Posted in Countries, Ecuador | 15 Comments
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