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  • Monthly Archives: September 2018

    • La Vida en Palermo

      Posted at 9:42 pm by Charlotte, on September 27, 2018

      Term started 2 full weeks ago, and we have settled into a new stride.  We are staying in an AirBnB in Palermo Soho (Buenos Aires) which is a district so hipster there is even a vegan dog food store round the corner.  It feels a bit like we never left Camden, except the local (human!) food options are a vast improvement and we don’t understand the profanities embedded in the street art.

      A good weekday goes something like this: cuddles and cups of tea/hot chocolate in bed while I read aloud, followed by a healthy leisurely breakfast, and then the girls get dressed, tidy their room, make their beds, and get to their ‘desks’ by 9.

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      Lessons run from 9-1 with Robert, our amazing teacher.  The girls are following the St Christophers curriculum / smushed with the national curriculum for maths / english / science, and are drawing on local inspiration for history / geography etc.  We are ALL trying to learn Spanish using Duo Lingo and practicing on the taxi drivers mostly.  I haven’t quite yet managed to weave in my favourite Duo phrase ‘the cat is in the fridge’, but bingo points please when I do!

      Each week the girls spend the last hour of each school day working on a project which they present to us over G&Ts on Friday.  Week 1 was focused on South America.  The girls made a map ‘puzzle’, and we all did time-trials to see who could put it together quickest:

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      Next up: quizzes based from fact files on the countries that we have visited so far:

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      Then some artwork was presented, inspired by the sunsets at Jericoacoara:

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      Lastly a quiz about evolution (inspired by our trip to the Galapagos) which required Robert, James and I to pick animal ‘traits’ out of a hat, and then pitch for which of us would survive various ecological changes using Darwinian principles.

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      This weeks project took a completely different track.  Dragons Den!  Bella and Emily created a new household product based on local ingredients: MAS the More Avocado Spray that has magical cleaning properties.  They put together a marketing plan, all the financials, made a TV advert, registered a trademark for their recipe, created packaging, mocked up posters (in English and Spanish), and then were ready to pitch to us for £10k of investment.  James and I were reasonably tough on our negotiations, but the girls ultimately secured the financial commitment they needed for a full launch.  Keep an eye on your local supermarket shelf!

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      The project bar has been set REALLY high (despite Roberts protestations that this really is child-led learning!), so we can’t wait for what next week brings, and are so grateful and happy to have Robert with us for all the skill, experience, creativity, enthusiasm, and laughter he brings to Monicofamilytravels!

      During weekday afternoons, we either chill at ‘home’, messing with instruments, and running local errands,

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      cook together (chicken soup is the girls latest speciality),

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      or head out to explore some of the city:

      Museum of Fine Arts with Robert’s fascinating potted history of art tour, and some drawing:

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      Museo de Fine Arts

      Festival of emerging technology and arts:

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      Exploring La Boca, including a cheesy tango lunch:

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      Alexander Calder at the Proa Foundation:

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      Or enjoying whatever bonkers action is happening at the end of our street:

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      We round out the school weeks with BBQ and movie night on Fridays.  Week one we watched Evita (the Madonna version) which was a comprehension challenge all round, yet evocative, and a great way to introduce some local politics!  Last night we watched School of Rock which made me cry….

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      A bad day involves morning fights to get up/dressed/ready (if you are a parent, you know the ones I mean!), a steak hangover (if you’ve ever been to Argentina, you’ll know the ones I mean!), too much screen time for the kids (how can Matheletics be THAT fun?!?!), bickering, and too much screen time for James and I (its literally incredible how much time it takes us both to keep planning the next phases of our travels).

      Next week is our last in the city, so we are looking to make the most of the culture, gastronomy and shops before we hit the sticks for another change of pace.

       

      Posted in Argentina, Countries | 7 Comments
    • One racing afternoon

      Posted at 8:04 pm by Millie, on September 24, 2018

      One afternoon we were walking around trying to find something really fun to do.  We found somewhere where you could race cars that looked really cool and we went inside.

      There were 3 tracks.  One easy, one getting harder and the last one was MEGA.  We went straight for the mega one.

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      My car was white, green and red and it went super fast around the bends.  I had one of the best lanes because I was in the middle.  If you are in the middle you don’t get too tight turns, but not too loose turns.

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      The track was really well decorated with people by the side with multicoloured clothes cheering, made out of clay.  There were also teepees on the fields, and a helicopter, and cars filling up with petrol.

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      There was a big screen where you could see what scoring you would get.  So red would say (for example) 33 laps, and yellow would say 20 laps.  And at the end the lady would announce the scores.   Although it wasn’t a race, but we raced anyway.

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      IMG_20180924_171953The lady was really nice, because whenever we by accident crashed off the track she would rush to help us.  When we stopped to have a toilet break,when we came back she was holding out lollipops for us to take and suck.  At the end she gave us a biscuit.

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      When I went into the Scalextrix, to myself I said WOW that is one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen.  When you had your car on the track, whenever you overtook somebody you would feel really good inside because you had overtaken them.

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      Posted in Argentina, Countries | 11 Comments
    • Video: The king of the fish

      Posted at 8:36 pm by James, on September 23, 2018

      This video came about in rather a roundabout way. We set off as a family on our Ecuadorian jungle adventure and, mesmerised by the beauty of the place, started filming bits and pieces of our walks and tours. Half way through our expedition into the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, we heard the story of “the king of the fish” which provided all the inspiration we needed for a jolly good adventure.

      So, grab a brew, settle down and we hope you enjoy finding out who “the king” really is.

      [Click to play the video]

      Posted in Countries | 9 Comments
    • Dog’s

      Posted at 6:45 pm by Bella, on September 18, 2018

      In South America I heard about rabies and I didn’t like the idea of getting bitten much, or stroking dogs, but then there was a dog at a bar we went to in Barre Grande and it was SOOOOOOOOOOOO cute.  It rolled over to let you tickle its tummy and Rosalin and Emily and I cuddled it in the sand.

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      The next cute dog which I have to write about was at a pizza restaurant in Atins.  It was outside and the dog came up to us and looked at us and I knew it wanted to be stroked. So I stroked it while I waited for my pizza.  It was SOOOOOOOO adorable.

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      At lunch the next day a funny thing happened.  We were sitting at a restaurant waiting for our food.  Mummy got a shock and said there is something warm and soft under her feet.  There had been a dog lying there the whole time and she hadn’t realised it!  Emily and I laughed SOOOOOOOOO much.

      Mummy goes out running every morning and she passed a yoga place and the next morning she went to that yoga place to do some yoga.  When she got back from yoga I was having my breakfast and she said there were some REALLY cute puppies at the yoga place if I wanted to come and stroke them.  They were SOOOOOOOOO soft.  They were all huddled up sleeping in a corner.  Later I played with them again outside.

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      The last of all we went to Hacienda Alegria.  Mummy did a blog post on the Hacienda, and so you’ll know what we did there but there were five dogs that were SOOOOOOOOOO playful.  Their names were Oreo, Snowy, Blackie, Cooee and Sultan.

      Blackie loved for you to throw sticks for him.

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      Oreo loved to be stroked on the tummy.

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      Snowy loved to join in with the sticks and to go running with Mummy.

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      Cooee you could pick up and hug because he wasn’t as big as the others which were Border Collies, and there was no chance of you picking them up.

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      Sultan wanted to make you hug him not any of the other dogs.

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      I am hoping to see lots more dogs on our travels, and I can share pictures of the nicest ones with you.

      Posted in Argentina, Countries | 10 Comments
    • Art Basel Buenos Aires

      Posted at 6:25 pm by Charlotte, on September 12, 2018

      We caught the last day of Art Basel Buenos Aires this afternoon.  With limited time we picked 2 installations to view.

      The first was at the end of a long wooden pier: a precarious yet mysteriously resilient structure stretching 800 meters out into the Rio de la Plata.  The pier has been home to an old fishing club since 1934, and as we embarked on the long rickety walk to the installation at the end we stopped to watch an old fisherman gut and scale a huge bloated fish.  As we neared pier-end oblivion, we stumbled through a rather strange entrance way which comprised a blackout tunnel containing a silent man working a lathe.  Bursting back out into daylight we found the main event: these revolving doors:

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      Perspective of Absence, by Eduardo Basualdo

      I quite liked them, and tried to engage the girls in interesting conversation about the artistic properties of said installation and what it might signify, but they were singularly unimpressed (I’m not sure if their apathy was triggered by the length of the walk, or the actual artwork).  They would apparently have been more impressed if they could have spun through the doors and landed in the ocean, or even better onto a trampoline suspended above the water.

      On the walk back (did I mention the pier was long?!?!), the girls decided to up the ante and offer us and the other attendees some alternative performing arts:

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      Two Rocks on a Pier, designed by Bella Monico, performed by Bella and Emily Monico

      Just to keep things exciting, the rocks occasionally popped up!

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      The second installation we engaged with was David Horovitz’s Señalamiento del cielo (Signaling the Sky) which involved the release of 200 helium ball at several different times and places across the city.  His concept was to pay homage to Marcel Duchamp.  Horovitz encouraged audience participation, as an opportunity for viewers to look at the industrial skyline in a different way.  We found ourselves outside the Ex Cerveceria and were lucky enough to get our hands on 2 of the 200 balloons!

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      The balloons were attached to strings that were each exactly 1 mile long.  We had fun playing with them on site, trying not to get them tangled with everyone else’s balloons, then stuffed them in a taxi to bring them home to our AirBnB in Palermo.  At sunset we took them to our roof terrace, and let them out REALLY far on their strings……….then pulled them back in again.  Bella and Emily got a bit emotionally attached to them, but ultimately decided that they would have a better ‘end’ released to experience freedom and see the curvature of the earth, than tied to a chair to deflate overnight.  So they tied the balloons together for companionship, said fond farewells……

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      and watched Bobby and Luna dance their way to space!

      NB the above is a video – if you are reading this by e-mail, then the video won’t come through, so go to the website (www.monicofamilytravels) to watch.  Caveat: this video is basically 2 balloons disappearing into space, so depending on how stoned you are, it is possibly a less exhilarating watch than the high-adrenalin galloping-on-the-dunes videos shared in earlier posts.

      Posted in Argentina, Countries | 5 Comments
    • Mashpi Magic

      Posted at 5:23 pm by Charlotte, on September 8, 2018

      NB IF YOU GET NOTIFICATION OF THIS BLOG BY E-MAIL, RECOMMEND YOU GO TO WWW.MONICOFAMILYTRAVELS.COM TO READ IT, AS THE PHOTOS RENDER BETTER THAT WAY AND THERE ARE A LOT OF THEM IN THIS EPISODE!

      This is a bit of a retrospective on  our trip to Mashpi cloud forrest (in Ecuador) before we flew to Buenos Aires last September, as it somehow didn’t get blogged, and deserves more than a mention.  

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      MASHPI PANORAMA: the lodge is nestled in the middle, our wonderful guide Lizardo features on the right

      The story of Mashpi Lodge begins in 2001, when the local mayor bought a section of the Mashpi Cloud Forest.  I was initially skeptical regarding his motivation, but ended up convinced of the purity of his rationale to protect this area of astounding biodiversity, after years of deforestation and exploitation for gold-mining had threatened its unique and curious flora and fauna.

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      Mashpi Lodge was created by architect Alfredo Ribadeneria in collaboration with interior designer Diego Arteta to create a space where guests could  be immersed in the cloud-forest while making minimal impact on the surrounding environment

      Our days were spent hiking hilly trails IMG_20180907_154924cunningly converted into steps by setting plastic drink-bottle crates deep into the mud, and splashing along tinkling streams.  The vistas, were vast and ubiquitously spectacular. We discovered untold medicine trees, the Mashpi Magnolia (unique to this nature reserve), and so many fabulous birds.  Butterflies abounded. While the rare Spectacled Bear managed cunningly to elude us, we did have a rather memorable encounter with some black howler monkeys. Bella and I were out for a sunset hike, and we spotted a troop in the trees directly above us and tried to track them as they leisurely swung from branch to branch towards their sleeping spot.  It was a rare siting, and just as we were starting to feel rather smug, they weed on us. A LOT. Turns out monkey wee REALLY stinks! But the real question is, is it more lucky than bird poo?

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      This butterfly can camouflage itself as an owl….

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      …..or as a snake!

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      The ‘walking’ palm that can move itself up to a meter per year!

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      One of the cheeky monkeys that weed on us!

      Most of our walks took in a waterfall or 2 where we could have a shower or a dip.  They tended to be on the ‘refreshing’ side, but inspired awe and reflection about how special and rare it is to experience such remote and beautiful places.   

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      Our guide, Lizardo (for real!) IMG_20180905_104524not only looked the part, but was incredibly knowledgeable, and had a passion for tiny frogs that turned out to be rather infectious (the passion not the frogs!).  He was locally born, and totally self-made (taught himself great English from scratch in 3 months using Duo Lingo which renders our reciprocal Spanish efforts using the same app rather pathetic).  In one of his past lives he was a climbing guide hence ninja with ropes, which made for some fun tarzan swinging:

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      Mashpi Lodge has some great gimmicks which serve both to reveal different aspects and perspectives of forest life and appealed to the kids (including the big kids!) in our party.  The skybike is like a push-me-pull-you trans-forest-self-propelled vehicle. Its heavy and therefore a LOT harder work than it looks. But that (obviously!) didn’t stop us.

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      The Dragonfly (a form of open-air cable car) is a lot longer, and mechanically driven hence less hard work.  Our first trip consisted of 45 minutes of ‘flying’ through a cloud, but we caught some amazing views and a few cool birds next go.

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      The foggy one

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      The viewtastic one!

      Other than some spectacular cocktails (inspired by the forrest) 2 other highlights of the Mashpi experience include the Humming Bird station where feeders attracted literally hundreds of birds – beautiful to watch, rather frustrating to photograph……

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      And the thrills and spills of night walks:

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      We celebrated the end of this first ‘holiday’ section of the greater Monicofamilytravels adventure with cocktails in the jaccuzzi.

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      Next stop was BA, 1st school term kicking off, and our Argentinian vida.

      2 furry friends to see you off!

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      And some less furry ones

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      And I couldn’t ACTUALLY close out without memorialising James’s hair! (it does it for me baby!)

      Posted in Countries, Ecuador | 4 Comments
    • Rather a lot of sharks!

      Posted at 6:06 pm by Charlotte, on September 3, 2018

      The Galapagos have been rather unexpected, and predictably incredible simultaneously.  The relentless preservation of the Islands is like a cult thats easy to buy into, and the constant proximity of animals/birds to humans is surreal.  

      Our first night was spent at a cutesy hotel on Santa Cruz Island, and we reconvened with our lovely jungle-German friends for dinner, games and cocktails.  It was a painfully early start the next morning to get the ‘ferry’ to San Cristobal Island. Turns out the ‘ferry’ wasn’t one of those vast lumbering vessels that you booze cruise across the English Channel, but rather a vomit inducing, spine crushing speed boat which banged and lunged around for 3 hours until we all ended up in a heap with the other passengers at the back of the boat and disembarked feeling bruised and somewhat green (despite the liberal dosing of Dramamine).  We stayed at a somewhat dingy, but very functional airBnB (with IMG_20180827_061620a great view of the bay), took a gentle hike that afternoon to the local Mirador, then stopped on our way home to snorkel at a recommended spot. Despite double wetsuitage, entering the freezing water elicited much shrieking, only surpassed in decibels when a playful sea lion skimmed past and then stuck around to duck and dive all around us. Emily managed to get a great photo (whilst screaming!), and this might take centre stage for her next blog post.

      James and I got some (chilly but) great (lots of sharks) dives in while we were on San Cristobal, and Bella did a discovery dive (her 10th Birthday present).  She was super cool and calm (as you would expect from Her Beaniness) and was rewarded with some amazing sightings – look out for video highlights coming soon! Emily and Bella also did some fairly full on snorkelling at the same dive sites while we were underwater (despite deep-seaness, and major swell), and handled themselves really well, even when the sharks appeared!

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      I won’t dwell on the ferry back to Santa Cruiz (more of the same!) but day 1 of activities was a real highlight.  IMG_20180830_135209We took a private fishing tour. None of us are remotely into fishing, but it turns out that it can be really quite exciting when both lines kept ‘catching’ simultaneously, and we got to ‘fight’ the fish from belt harnesses.  We landed one pretty quickly – a spectacular yellowfin tuna (which we enjoyed for the next few dinners!), but all the others got away (because they were sooooo big that they broke the lines/swallowed the lures – most likely sharks – obvs!). And then the next unexpected treat – the sun came out (we haven’t seen it since Quito!), so we swam to a pristine white beach, and lounged around with the sea lions and built sandcastles.

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      Watching the Safari Camp chef making sashimi with our yellow fin!

      Bella’s birthday was a delight from start to finish.  We kicked off at 5:30am withIMG_20180831_083222 hot chocolate and presents in bed.  Our biggest hit was a blue candy ‘thumb’which came with a dipping pot full of mega-tangy sherbert.  Who knew such gastronomic delights existed and could be savoured at such an uncivilised hour? The Safari Camp where we are staying served cupcakes for breakfast, and decorated both the table and us with various lurid masks, sprinkles and streamers.  We headed out for a tour of Plazas Island IMG_20180831_110814where we got very close to various nesting birds, handled some gruesome skeletons, and a observed a colony of bachelor sea lions (they go here to hangout when they’ve been ostracised, or when they are building strength to win the hearts of sea-lionesses!).  The boat crew had been duly tipped off, and served cake number 2 at lunch. It’s an Ecuadorian tradition to make your birthday wish as you (literally) take a bite of cake, and Bella dived in without hesitation!

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      A real unexpected highlight after lunch was when our Captain spotted 2 humpback whales courting not far from us.  They were both leaping out of the water about 50M from us, and even our guide could hardly contain her excitement. Not long after (as if the whales weren’t enough) we saw a ray jumping out of the water (apparently to get rid of parasites, so less romantic than the whale’s display!). We snorkelled after lunch in a quiet channel teeming with huge shoals of various fish, IMG_20180831_173621and ended up in a lagoon where lots of black tipped sharks were taking their afternoon snoozes under some rocks round the edge.  During the snorkelling trip Emily lost a tooth! There was a dramatic amount of blood, so Em got out of the water to avoid attracting even more sharks.  Sadly (despite a heroic effort from James to ‘catch’ it underwater) we lost the tooth, but luckily the Ecuadorian tooth rat (!!!) picked up the message from May (Emily’s personal ‘home’ tooth fairy) and visited overnight. Back to Bella’s birthday, the rest of our happy afternoon passed with a piñata bashing on the terrace of our lodge, tea ie cake number 3, a mega game of Ecuadorian Monopoly, and lots of cocktails and mocktails lit up with flashing ice cubes!  Dinner brought with it cake number 4 which none of us was able to touch…. A memorable Beanie 10th for us all!

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      Our last few days brought more tours, more islands, more arctic snorkels, more incredible animals and birds, more well meaning American pensioners, more mosquito bites, some yoga on the sunset observation tower, and one gruesome stomach infection for Emily.

      And before I sign out:

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      Here is the obligatory tortoise photo

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      And the other obligatory tortoise photo

      And I try to avoid double posting photos on the blog/Instagram BUT, these sea lion numbers were too good not to revisit

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      This cheeky chappy was looking to hitch a ride to the next island 

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      And this one just wanted to hang out at the hottest bar in town with las chicas

       

      Posted in Countries, Ecuador | 8 Comments
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