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  • Monthly Archives: June 2019

    • Embracing Instatourists, the hippies, and the l♥ve

      Posted at 5:03 pm by Charlotte, on June 30, 2019
      For Robin’s last full day, we hit Virgin Beach.
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      A promising track took us over the brow of a hill to a spectacularly blue ocean

      Bali is not always the best for beaches, but this Culture Trip highlight didn’t disappoint!  Soft sand, blue warm sea, enough waves to have fun in without being scary or dangerous, comfy loungers, tasty fresh fish in the restaurants and various beach urchins selling tat to keep the kids occupied.
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      On our way back from the beach we stopped at Aloha Ubud,  one of the proliferating swing complexes that aboundWhatsApp Image 2019-06-29 at 22.13.02(2) and surround Ubud.  On discovering that it was (yet again) purely a set up for the Instahounds, much to the horror of the girls, we embraced wholeheartedly to join vs beating them. Step one, rent a long dress from the closet and change out of cut offs and shredded t-shirt.  Having failed to spend the day at a salon in hair and makeup I was never going to rival the dedicated Instacrowd, but we figured the ‘from behind shots might work out OK.  It was actually more fun than we thought it might be, and after a certain amount of cajoling we even got a shot or 2 out of the Bella Bean where she engaged (albeit reluctantly) and even offered a smile.
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      Its the money shot!

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      I think Millie might have gone whole hog given a different wardrobe option (ie her own).

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      If I told her how elegant she looks she’d kill me!

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      Frame It baby Frame It!

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      For Friday movie night we got all set up around James’s laptop to watch Ferris Bueller’s day off (which somehow seemed fitting given that we has Cooch in the house who has been seeding all sorts of fun mischief with the girls throughout the week!).  Bella and Emily made their famous guacamole for us all to enjoy with some nachos, and we settled in to enjoy the show.

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      In a (successful) attempt to send Robin out in something close (but so far) from the style that we welcomed him in,
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      Ubud Yoga Barn

      we got up in decent time on Sunday morning to go worship at the church of Yoga Barn for their regular Sunday morning Ecstatic Dance.  So popular is it that we joined a long queue at 8:45 am along with the Neo-hippies, yogis and other loons-such-as-ourselves to get our numbers (we were 82nd – 84th in line to buy tickets – the girls got in free), and then extracted ourselves to go for brunch (fuel for us, bribes for the girls).  The main event kicked off at 11 and consisted of a slow build up of movement to a mixture of tribal, trance and dance beats.  It built to a crescendo over 2 hours and then slowed right down until all were lain out prostrate on the floor (or hugging someone) while the DJ brought us down from our high with some soothing guitar music.  It was the most bonkers out-there ‘clean’ rave that we’ve ever enjoyed. It sat somewhere between exercise, yoga, self expression and raving.  I have to say that as an early adopter I stuck close to the open-sides of the room as the extreme BO closer to the centre became somewhat unbearable.  At this point I was (once again) slightly relieved that nudity was strongly discouraged.  Having said that, despite extreme sweatiness, everyone had enough self-awareness not to bump into each other (at least not unintentionally!), which is more than can be said for Space in Ibiza!  It was a room full of beautiful people of all ages and races losing their inhibitions, and dancing freely which is a precious and rare thing.

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      The girls needless to say were mortified and having none of it.  I bribed them to sit at the side of the room for half an hour, and James even convinced them to walk around a little with him, but then we took mercy and released them to the outer terrace with their iPads.
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      This celebration of sweat and love and music marked the end of our fabulous week with Mr Robin Cooch.  After a quick shower and lots of happy-sad hugs we waved him off to the airport.  Thanks for visiting Robin – you were AWESOME, and it was wonderful to have such a great chunk of time with you.
      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 0 Comments
    • Lava rocks 1 – scooters 0

      Posted at 9:58 pm by James, on June 28, 2019

      With the kids under Gozza’s watchful eye, Robin and I had a free pass to spend the day exploring the wilder north of Bali. Without a plan, a clue or even much petrol we set off in the general direction of The North.

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      This part was easy to fix. Street petrol saves the day.

      We decided to head for what we hoped would be a volcano, the point marked “Mt Batur” on the map. After 45 minutes of constant climb, we could feel a chill in the air and were surprised to stumble upon a gateway announcing our arrival at the UNESCO protected Geopark, raising our expectations and spirits.

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      Crater with Mt Batur in the middle (well, with Robin in front)

      This huge crater was formed around 23,000 BC when an explosion of epic proportions blew its top off, leaving a hole about 15 miles across, with a cute little mini volcano right in the middle. Without any ado Robin announced “Let’s ride the crater,” which seemed like a great idea at the time …

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      … until we reached this unworldly landscape

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      … but we got the hang of it … kind off …

      And we were so awestruck by the life in the crater that we just had to make a short movie of the adventure where you will see it is: lava rocks 1, scooters 0. Enjoy!

       

       

       

       

       

       

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 4 Comments
    • Getting down with the locals

      Posted at 8:54 am by Charlotte, on June 27, 2019
      After a few weeks of practicing on my scooter I finally built up the courage to ride with Bella on the back:
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      This brought us new freedoms as the ‘back route’ to N Ubud was just 20 minutes on 2 wheels (vs 40 on 4), and took us through gorgeous countryside, and across a rather unnerving bridge (which is sometimes even more unnervingly ‘closed’ resulting in a splash through the ford instead).
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      It was one way traffic only!

      We had been introduced to Christine (a wonderful artist) and Tim (a fabulous photographer) who gave us a tour of their spectacular home and studio (completed just 2 years ago), view to die for, dreamy architecture.  We joined them for lunch and enjoyed more wonderful organic fare, and great company as we listened to tales of their life from gold-rush days in Oz to living the dream in Bali, and a great many twists and turns along the way.  What an inspiration on so many levels!

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      On our way home we made a planned stop to hang out with Arya the son of Made (our cycling guide) who had kindly agreed to take us kite flying – local style.  He was just back from University (hospitality school) for the day, and it was about that time in the late afternoon when the skies fill with kites.  They are all made from bin bags and light bamboo, stuck together by piercing overlapping pieces of plastic with lit incense sticks (now that’s a trick we’d never have guessed!). Arya had learned how from his grandfather.  He gave us all sorts of tips like the right weight of thread/wire for the wind strength, and size of kite, and also how to string it properly (apparently we’d tried to string ours upside down – doh!

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      Our kite was a bird, and it was so artfully created that when it flew it really looked like it was flapping!

      Its really hard to describe the sense of space and serenity when there are dozens of these kites flying so high in the sky (length of string released definitely appears to be a source of pride!).

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      There are big kites…..

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      …..and swan kites…..

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      …..and then there are the ‘rocket’ kites?!?!?!  The young likely lads were giggling a lot when the released their ‘rocket’ near us.

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      What was so unique and lovely was to go fly with the locals.  We were of course somewhat of a curiosity down in Arya’s local paddy, but everyone was so friendly and ready to help our somewhat inept flying efforts, and to show off their own skills and creations.  The light was soft and beautiful, the air was warm and thick with humidity and the lingering heat of the day mixed with a smokey overlay from burning the rice stalks.
      I might have dropped the back end of my scooter into a ditch getting into the field, but no one was hurt (including the bike) thankfully!
      Bella was determined to reel ours in, which took a while.  She narrowly escaped a crossed string, and finally landed our kite with confidence.

      To continue our inadvertent day of local experiences, we were relaxing by the pool and Augus shinned up a tree, not for coconuts this time, but for a fruit which we have still yet to identify, but enjoyed tasting with him!  Eating from the Arcadia Villa garden has been such an unexpected bonus.

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      For dinner Robin, James and I headed to Gianyar to the night market (leaving BMB (Bob, Millie, Bella) at home with a safe packet of pasta.  In comparison with Ubud which is artistic, sophisticated and vey much catering for tourists, Gianyar is a local local town, and we were the only gringos in the market.

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      Colourful from a distance, like many of these places you get close and see that the colour is often the trash.  Having said that, as ever in Bali, cheerful bright offerings abounded, and there were plenty of Bali dogs curled up awaiting for whatever pickings would come their way.

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      Food stalls followed one of 3 themes: duck (Bebek), pig (Babi) or chicken (Ayam).
      Robin was unconvinced we’d be sufficiently nourished on the duck…

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      ….and so we opted for the pig…

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      ….along with a side of entrails….

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      Neither of these faces look convinced to me!

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      And here’s why….actually it probably wouldn’t have been too bad if it had been hot, but actually the fat had congealed which made it tough to swallow.

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      We popped into the supermarket on the way home to pick up some provisions, and found a basket of tapes on sale – blast from the past! Bless!

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      Anyhow, none of us fell ill that night, so altogether we could call the evening a success, although in retrospect I wish we’d tried the sate chicken……which looked more popular with the locals themselves which says it all!
      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 2 Comments
    • Mepantigan: celebration of the spirit

      Posted at 6:32 pm by Charlotte, on June 26, 2019

      I can honestly say that when I signed up for some mud fun at Mepantigan I had literally no idea what I had actually gotten us into, or how incredibly entertaining it would be.  There are a lot of videos in this post, but while we got some great static shots, really you need to see the movement and hear the craziness to get a sense of what we actually got stuck (!) into!

      We were greeted with some delicious lime and lemon-grass water, and a few local sweet treats.  Apparently the greeness of the green one comes from extract from suji leaves  pandan leaves which was a pleasant surprise (I assumed lots of food colouring!).

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      Before long a lone drummer came stomping and dancing around the corner dressed in a rustling leaf contraption.

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      He was soon joined by his friends, and they performed a vibrant physical tribal song and dance for us before demonstrating some of the moves and calls that are used in the prelude to mud-wrestles:

       

      I think at this point we were all feeling somewhat bemused (possibly nervous!) inside, but the infectious smiles and good humour of our ‘crew’ lulled us into a fab warm up team photo.

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      Mepantigan is a actually a form of IMG_20190626_161149 Balinese martial arts that involves similar physical techniques to those found in self-defense traditions around the world. But Mepantigan extends the form by also drawing upon Balinese drama, contemporary dance, and gamelan music, fusing fighting with the performing arts to create an entirely new cultural phenomenon. Participants wear uniforms consisting of traditional Balinese clothing, and can compete on the beach, in the mud of rice fields, or in any open space.

      Practitioners of Mepantigan gain physical fitness, release stress, and learn valuable lessons in camaraderie and sportsmanship. In addition to physical skills, strength, and agility, both emotional and spiritual intelligences are utilised.

      According to Putu Witsen Widjaya, the founder and senior teacher of Bali Mepantigan Arts and a martial arts champion, students of Mepantigan evolve as human beings and avoid violence while cultivating compassion. As he observed, “Wherever proper martial arts develop, evil will diminish and a respect for others will grow. This is particularly true for those who practice Mepantigan, which is a celebration of the spirit”.

      We did some prolonged ‘land-based’ warm up games of chanting and singing and finally practicing some wrestling moves.  These were a lot of fun in themselves, and I think their purpose was as much to tackle our inhibitions and warm up our sense of crazy fun as they were to warm up our muscles.

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      The mud warm up took it up a notch!  Amongst other hilarities, it involved various running races across 2 split level mud ‘pitches’.  The water was about a foot deep, and the mud underfoot was on the squidgy side, and a bit slippery, but didn’t smell bad which was a relief.  In fact the mud here is purported to have multiple health and skin benefits, and to be very sanitary.

       

      The next exercise was to help us learn a technique for cleaning our eyes should they inadvertently get any mud in them whilst fighting.  You put your face near the water, slam the water with your hand to shoot (muddy?!?!) water against your face, and then clean it away with your palm.  It sort of worked!

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      Then it was time to embrace the mud wholeheartedly!

      And then get right in!  There was no sitting by the sidelines with this outfit….

       

      We did a final practice of the pre-wrestle ritual:

       


      Lastly before the games began (finally!) in earnest, we sat with our eyes closed while we were painted up with war paint.
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      Emily opened the mud-wrestling games

      She sustained a convincing  (!?!) win, and received lots of appreciation for her dance at the end (victors are expected to dance not gloat at the end, and then to help up their opponents and give them a hug – we love you Bali!).

       

      The battles then began in earnest!  We all embraced the fun and the challenge and the mud!  Our crew went fairly easy on the women and children, but didn’t hold back so much for Robin and James!

       

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      Bella masters the basic throw:

       

      I suffer a hugely undignified shoulder spin, but come back with a vengeance:

       


      James gives it a good shot with the Papuan from our crew who comprised a solid mass of dense muscle.

       

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      I’m kinda proud of this one….

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      Emily mirrors the facial sparring that comes before the arms interlock

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      Bella embraces the mud!

      More wrestling videos at the bottom, but I’ll fast forward for now to the end of the battles, when we had a nice sit down and a cup of coffee (matured and roasted of course in mud).  It was very treacly but actually quite tasty and reviving after a very physical afternoon.

       

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      Then came the duck bit!  I believe in the authenticity of most of what we did that day, but never actually got to the bottom of whether the duck-on-the-head has any cultural relevance, or whether its just the crew’s way of having a good laugh at our expense (fair enough – they worked REALLY hard!).  So, they slapped a huge dollop of mud on our heads, and then put a duck on top.  The duck pooped on me – apparently that constitutes very good luck (obviously!!), so lucky me!

       

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      Now that we were nicely cooled down it was time for a mud massage, and a mud face pack.  We suspected that this wasn’t the crew’s favourite (or most expert) part of the programme, but it was a once-in-a-lifetime, so why not?

       

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      James looks like he might be enjoying his massage just a little too much?!?!

      Lastly we took a turn in a home made sauna, heated by water infused with local herbs.

       

      It was pretty pitch black in there, and on the more tepid side of hot, but we embraced the steam and a darkened chill out for a while before emerging to be washed off by the warm herby water.

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      We took a final rinse in the local river which was thankfully warmer than it looked because we were getting a bit chilly by that stage, and then tasted some delicious fried tempeh and battered bananas before wending our way home.

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      This definitely constitutes one of the more bonkers activities of Monicofamilytravels.  We certainly discovered some Balinese traditions that few tourists get to enjoy, and added to our repertoire of ‘you’ll never believe what we did….’ stories.
      2 more videos for you:

      1. James and Robin go at it

       

      2) If you know Robin watch this one (and see it through to the end!)

       

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 4 Comments
    • Pedal power!

      Posted at 5:36 am by Charlotte, on June 25, 2019

       

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      What better way to explore the villages of Bali than on 2 wheels (maybe 2 wheels with a motor if you ask James, but on this beautiful balmy late afternoon I appreciated hearing the sounds of nature around us, and the breeze blowing gently past us)?  Especially when its downhill ALL THE WAY (well 90% of it)!

      Our guide Made was the perfect balance of fun and informative.  He picked a trail that took us through some really remote villages, away from the tourist rat routes, and we stopped often to explore.

      Robin didn’t last long at our first stop – he squealed louder and escaped faster than even Bella and Emily!  Made showed us a vast web of golden silk orb spiders 10 feet tall and wider than it was high.  They live communally.  The spiders are highly prized as they keep the flies away from the neighbouring chicken farm!

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      We learned that typical villages contain about 8-900 people.  This is a workable size for the water irrigation Subak collectives, and most of the houses in each community line just one or 2 intersecting streets.

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      Families live IMG_20190625_145915 in compounds together.   You can count the number of families by the number of water pipes in leading in from the street!  Within the compound, sub-families have their own detached rooms or small houses, and often contain 3 or 4 generations.  As Sarah explained in her guest blog, the older generation are usually taken care of by their eldest son, who’s wife comes to live with them.  If a couple only has daughters, they need for one of their daughters to find a husband who is willing to come and live with them vs staying with his own family.  There is no dumping old folk in ‘homes’ in Bali!

      Each compound has an ornate gate, and then a ‘blocker’ so you can’t see from the street into the compound.  The ‘blocker’ will have a statue of one of their gods, often Ganesha who is the deity of good fortune. Daily offerings of flowers and food are made to the god, and also and also to the demons to keep them away (these consist of small pieces of banana leaf with rice on them as on the RHS below).

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      Every village or town has its craft.  The village we explored specialised in making offerings and baskets from bamboo which is unfortunately for them not very lucrative.  Others community specialism examples are wood carving, pottery, bone carving etc.

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      Drying bamboo for weaving

      The main courtyard at the front of each compound has 4-6 pavilions for various purposes including celebrations, sleeping (for the head of the family), a rice barn and a kitchen.

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      Each compound also has its own pamerajan, or family shrine, which is always enclosed by a stone fence, and is positioned at the most auspicious northeast corner.

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      Grandma making little pockets from bamboo leaves to house mini offerings:

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      The kitchens were very basic and fire fuelled.  All the food is essentially rice based, or just rice.  Balinese don’t eat communally.  Someone cooks first thing in the morning enough for the entire household/compound, and then individuals graze and help themselves throughout the day.  Families are around each other all the time, helping, working and hanging out, so they don’t feel the same compulsion to come together for ritual eating that we do in the West.

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      Family groups tend to own a pocket of paddies, and farm their own rice subsistence-style, in addition to working other jobs to support themselves.  The rice you see drying by the side of the road, or inside the courtyards is rarely if ever sold.

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      As with all households in Bali, cockerels abound, and this one had a particularly fine fellow!

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      We got some great paddy views on our descent, and saw plenty of harvesting, as well as the ducks cleaning out the last morsels of nourishment from the stubble fields.

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      Loving the blues in this family group!

      It was astounding the number of temples we passed.  Every village has 1-3 temples (or more!), all of which are well tended and regularly used for offerings and celebrations.

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      Some were nestled in pockets of jungle on the outskirts of town:

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      We stopped for bananas and water under the BEST TREE EVER!!!

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      We felt very much that we had opened up a deeper understanding of Bali and the Balinese over the course of this afternoon.  Its people are so warm and friendly.  Kids called out to us the whole way, and high-fived us as we passed through, and villagers welcomed us to explore their homes, and embraced our presence with the warmest smiles.

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 8 Comments
    • Welcoming Robin with a clifftop sundowner

      Posted at 4:56 am by Charlotte, on June 23, 2019

      We excitedly met Robin (the much anticipated final guest to Monicofamilytravels) at an airport hotel where he had crashed for the night after his bag had finally caught up with him following flight-delay shenanigans.

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      Random shot from the hotel shop, but we’ve been shocked by how many smokers there are in Indonesia.  Cigarettes are sold everywhere, accessible to all, merchandised in view and reach of children above the crisps and chocolates!

      With huge gratitude to Mr Matthew Adams for setting us up, we hot-footed it to Omnia day club, an all-day party destination perched atop a cliff, 100m above the Indian Ocean on the southern most tip of Bali.

       

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      We kicked off the welcome celebrations with cocktails and a spot of lunch:

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      During the afternoon we chilled out and admired the abundant beefcake and bottoms!

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      Pete Tong came on at about 5ish to play the sunset set….

       

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      ……and suddenly the loungers were empty and the dance floor was full!

       

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      The crowd didn’t take long to warm up and neither did we!

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      Sunset was gorgeous and euphoric:

       

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      After which it all really kicked off:

       

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      Bit of an incident with the podium…..

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      Here she goes!!!

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      And here she gets off…. escorted by the most courteous bouncers in the world!

      It all went a bit Pete Tong…..

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      …..so time for me to flip the photos into black and white:

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      ……and for Robin to get in the pool!

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      Luckily Monday was quiet, so we spent the day catching some rays, and playing with the girls in the pool.

      Millie took out her braids!

       

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      We even treated ourselves to a guest chef to cook dinner in the relaxed surroundings of Villa Arcadia so very little finger-lifting was required that day.

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      and Emily took a turn on the mixing desk!

      PERFECT!

      WELCOME ROBIN – WE ARE SO HAPPY TO HAVE YOU IN BALI!

       

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 2 Comments
    • Last seen…..

      Posted at 10:30 am by Charlotte, on June 22, 2019
      ……disappearing into the beach horizon.  More fleet-footed horses involved of course!
      On a top tip, we hot-footed it to a village just between Chang Gu and Seminak for a beach ride.  The horses looked well pampered, and smartly decked out in their red bandages.
      We were slightly surprised when the yard wanted to send foot-runners with all 4 of us (given that we were on the advanced ride), but ultimately they sent 2, and it turned out to be quite a good thing.

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      We were set up with 4 steeds, and took it calmly down some fairly ‘major’ roads** to the beach.  B & E rightly baulked at being led, so their runners trotted along side them.
      ** a major road equates to one where you can pass an oncoming vehicle without bypassing onto the verge, or dropping half a wheel into a ditch
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      When we got to the beach, all became clear.  The horses started dancing and prancing, and it turns out that the main function of the stables is for riders (or actually more often non-riders) to get their Instagram shots.  Apparently plenty of girls arrive in long flowing dresses or bikinis and expect to go out for a hack…….
      If you can’t beat them, join them….. so we took our turns to walk the length of the beach, and hoon it back while the patient photographer took pictures on my cellphone.
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      Here are our Insta-shots – duly colour filtered!

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      Once we were ‘post-ready’, our escorts were rather surprised that we wanted to go again, (EVEN though we already had the money shots) purely for the love of the gallop!  Actually the staff were fab.  Galloping technically wasn’t allowed by the stable’s owner (most punters predominantly stand and pose in the shallow surf), but seeing that we actually loved the horses and the riding, they let rip, and cheered us on.

      The horses got seriously excited, and Bella in true Beanie style was completely unstoppable:

      Squiggler was brave in the face of her speed demon:

      James encouraged his steed out of its leisurely cruise into overdrive, and mine frothed in the foamy waves and generally looked beautiful (when she wasn’t going mental at being held back to last-to-go in the galloping order!):

      We cruised through Chang Gu on the way home to check out the scene (having heard much), and grab a late lunch at a popular beach club.  It was on a spectacular setting on the coast line, and served a very decent grilled fish (and some sausages!).  The bathrooms were somewhat ‘hose-down’ and it was clearly a big party venue by night that cleaned up just enough by day to pull the punters in for the lunch shift before picking up the pace again at sunset.

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      Another high adrenaline day for Monicofamilytravels (those horses were, yet again, entirely unstoppable!!)

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 4 Comments
    • BARCing again and the 3 witches!

      Posted at 3:09 am by Charlotte, on June 21, 2019

      In school, Rob and the girls have mostly drawn inspiration and learning materials from the culture around us in each moment, but in order that Bella keeps up with the St Christophers Y6 English curriculum, they spent a few weeks this dipping into Shakespeare’s Macbeth, Midsummer Nights Dream, and Romeo and Juliet.  On Friday, they performed a great rendition of ‘Double Double Toil and Trouble’

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      Rob made an excellent 3rd witch to round out the triefecta

      Break time for Bella today constituted coconut tree climbing practice!  I’m convinced Agus will get her up the real thing before we are done.

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      We returned for the afternoon to the BARC dog rescue safehouse where they nurse the animals that are too sick to flourish in their sanctuary (which houses more than 350 animals, many ready waiting to be re-homed).

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      Happy reunion with some of our old friends: Lady, Rosie and Clara

      This visit we were trusted with dog washing, so we started with Daisy who was the most gentle unwanted ex-breeder labrador that you could hope for.

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      She even stood like a rock while she was vigorously rubbed dry.

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      Then I got to wash my beloved Lady.  When wet and lathered it was apparent that she is still a skinny little thing despite all the best efforts of the staff.  They can only feed her up slowly on pumpkin and tiny pieces of meat as she can’t hold down rich food, or too much at a time.

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      It doesn’t get much cuter does it?

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      Emily gets cosy with Clara, another abandoned ex-breeder who is sadly dying from cancer

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      Bella takes a turn with Lady while I cuddle little Missy – the plumpest chihuahua!

      On our way home, Rob met us for dinner at the infamous Famous.  It was the very first restaurant we went to in Bali (for a pizza hit!), and has become the most frequent (Bob is there most days!).

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      Its not exactly authentic Indonesian, but it does a mean pizza and has filled many happy bellies for us!

       

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 3 Comments
    • Its a mucky business!

      Posted at 4:28 am by Charlotte, on June 19, 2019

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      The rice paddy is such an archetypal attraction of the Bali tourist scene, its almost easy to forget that rice farming actually constitutes the livelihood of so many of its people.

      Our villa is nestled in P1040101 360° of rice paddys, and we have had the privilege of watching almost an entire cycle of rice production.  From this vantage point, and the with help and insights of  our wonderful staff Wyan, Augus and Gade, we now understand more deeply how rice acts as the life blood of Bali.  It permeates every aspect of Balinese culture and has for at least 2000 years.  The ‘Subak’ system of growing rice is much more than a simple agricultural methodology, its simultaneously spiritual and communal.

      We found an (artificial yet fun and informative) way to experience rice farming ‘hands on’ for ourselves at Tampakspiring Journey.  Despite turning up in our oldest clothes, ‘farming’ clothes were thrust upon us.  We donned said Ganesha wifebeaters and shiny shorts with good grace, and got to it!

      First up we had the experience of ploughing with cows.  Cows and buffaloes are still used all over Indonesia, although newer machinery, some motorised are a beginning to become commonplace.

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      After ploughing farmers IMG_20190619_163219let the soil (and themselves) rest for up to a few weeks and then they  ensure that the fields are flat and properly retaining water.

      Subak (the all-encompassing water irrigation system) consists of forests that protect the water supply, the terraced paddy landscape, rice fields connected by a system of canals (like the one on the RHS), tunnels and weirs, villages and temples of varying size and importance that mark either the source of water or its passage through the temple on its way downhill to irrigate the land.  This entire complex set of Subak elements are all managed communally in a way that binds Balinese agrarian societies together within geographic boundaries.

      Once the water is sorted, the Balinese then wait for planting day.  This will be a particular day determined by their calendar system which has been in place for more than a thousand years.

      IMG_20190622_115919.jpgBali is an island famous for being laid-back. People work slowly, and have a tenuous relationship with time-keeping at best.  This all changes when it comes to rice!  When it is planting time, the air is electrified with determination, and everyone comes together to work in the fields and make sure that Bali gets set up for yet another successful rice harvest.  The usual relaxed pace is replaced with speed that seems almost impossible.  An entire crop can be put into the ground in just a few hours. Planting involves taking shoots that have been cultured in ‘baby beds’, and ‘sticking’ them in the mud.

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      Our rookie efforts were fun but not neat enough to represent the real deal

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      Done properly the rice plants are re-sown in a uniform 10cm grid

      We had fun with it though….

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      …..and enjoyed getting muddy!

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      Ritual and spirituality are integral to the cycle of growing and harvesting rice.  Ceremonies and offerings to Dewi Sri (the goddess of rice and fertility) are performed throughout the year .  Many ceremonies are performed on the farm, others at water temples.

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      Dewi Sri

      The upstream corner of every rice field is sacred.  All the offering to Dewi Sri done on the farm are performed here.  Before planting, the first stems of rice are ceremonially carried and planted in the part of the field that is closest to Mount Agung – considered sacred by the Balinese.  All of hte rice produced from this corner of the field is also used as offerings to he goddess.  When it is harvest time, the farmers create an image of the goddess out of some of this rice and give it as an offering to her

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      Field offering temple

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      Ripe rice paddy beside Villa Arcadia

      Harvest is always still conducted by hand with scythes.  We were privileged to witness the very first cuts in the very first cuts in the gorgeous paddy field next to our house, and there was such a party atmosphere between the villagers who collected to work together.

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      The grains are threshed out of the stems, again by hand, by beating them into a large bamboo tube, and then they are de-husked in local ‘factories’.

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      Ducks are put on the fields post-harvest to clean up any grains and worms or grubs.  If a family doesn’t own their own, they borrow some!

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      Nearly the entire rice plant is used for something, but lastly the final debris is burned.

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      We got a bit smoked out a few nights at Villa Arcadia

      Understanding this rice cycle certainly concentrates the mind when we are enjoying our nasi goreng (Indonesian staple dish of fried rice)!  On a deeper level our exploration into rice growing certainly brings us closer to what feels like the true heart of Bali, along with the beautiful arts that we have been enjoying in this incredible country.

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 6 Comments
    • Crafty kicks!

      Posted at 11:11 pm by Charlotte, on June 18, 2019

      James took off for a 2 day road-trip of personal discovery on his beloved motorbike, so the girls and I maxed out on some of the amazing craft workshops offered in Ubud.

      First up was jewellery making.  We picked a design (a piece to copy), and then dove in, Bella stencilling and cutting a sheet of pure silver, and Millie drilling holes in the disc that was prepared for her by our teacher.

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      It was all pretty intricate, and to be honest we had a fair bit of help, especially when it came to wielding the blow torch!

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      Here is some work in progress:  Bella’s feather takes shape, and my tear drop slowly expands in a series of concentric wire bands that are molten together then bashed flat.

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      A beanie foot pumping air to fuel the blow torch

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      Bella adding some finishing touches

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      Bella’s masterpiece!

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      Millies masterpiece

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      My effort

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      A moment to count some of the blessings we experience daily in Bali:

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      The classroom to beat all classrooms!

      The incredible wildlife that we share our lives (intimately often!) with every day:

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      The bamboo hut at the bottom of our garden where we take yoga classes with atmospheric sounds and smells of the jungle enveloping us.

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      Our second creative effort of involved a bigger set of mallets, and chisels.

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      Bels getting started on her design with a block of wood nailed to a bigger block of wood!

      Emily and I both bashed our thumbs before we got the hang of it, and there was some minor finger chiseling, but ultimately no permanent damage done!

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      I worked hard at a cheesy gift for my beloved James:

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      Bella makes steady progress:

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      Millie displays her final work of art!

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      And here is mine!

      While Daddy was away we girls tended to bundle in together in the master bedroom, and we may have possibly indulged in a few breakfasts in bed…..

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      Freshly woken!

      But we were VERY happy when Daddy came home (in one piece!).

      Posted in Countries, Indonesia | 4 Comments
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